Dunham's rewards

HOT BATS: They’re Going Going Gone

BY: SportsFan - 05/08/2012 | 03:17 PM

The pitcher winds up and fires toward the plate.  The batter swings from the heels and makes contact.  Thinking home run, he trots toward first, only to break into a sprint as he sees the ball fall short of the fence.

 It’s a scene that will be repeated on many high-school baseball fields this spring, as most leagues begin their first season of play using bats engineered to perform more like the wood bats of old.  This change is due to the implementation of a new test – the Bat-Ball Coefficient of Restitution (BBCOR) – that a bat must pass, before it’s approved for play by the National Federation of State High School Associations (NFHS).  The new requirement has been in effect in NCAA play since January 2011.

 While bats were subject to regulation prior to this year, the old BESR test measured the speed of the ball coming off the bat, a number that varied as bats were broken in.  The new BBCOR specification measures the bounciness of “pop” of the bat and is a better indication of performance.

 The result is a bat that generates 10 to 15 percent less ball velocity than previously allowed composite and aluminum bats.  The 2011 NCAA season bore this out, as production fell.  According to Daniel A. Russell of The Pennsylvania State University, batting averages, home runs and earned-run averages for the 2011 NCAA season dropped to pre-aluminum-bat levels – the lowest in over 30 years.

 Many students of the game count diminished bat performance as a plus, since BBCOR-spec bats perform much like major-league wood bats, thereby enabling comparison.  What’s more, according to the NFHS, the BBCOR requirement is expected to minimize risk, improve play and increase teaching opportunities.

 Ballplayers like to see the ball soar at the crack of their bat, so the new BBCOR requirement isn’t getting a lot of love at the student-athlete level, but some have displayed a positive attitude.  Responding to an article on baseballbatreviewsblog.com, one athlete said, “The BBCOR bats have no pop, so I’ll stop complaining and square the ball up to get the pop, basically get better at hitting.”

 In most leagues, players will have the option of using BBCOR-approved non-wood bats or wood bats.  Dunham’s offers both.  Among the most popular BBCOR bats are the Easton Power Brigade performance bats.  Because power is a function of mass and speed, these bats are engineered to optimize both sides of the equation.  The Speed Series bats provide a little help for players who need more at speed.  For power hitters who can swing with the best of them, Easton offers the XL Series with extra large barrels.  Because most of the mass is in the barrel, the bats offer a very large hitting surface.

 Dunham’s sales consultants can help ballplayers, large and small, choose the best bat for their game.

-Home Run Hitter

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Wild Times With Water Sports

BY: mpotter - 05/02/2012 | 01:29 PM

Splash Into Summer with the Coolest Products on the Water

The temperature may just be starting to rise, but it’s never too soon to start making summer plans. One spot that’s always cool? The water! Check out these products to get a leg up on summer and start riding the waves.

Tubing Time

Water trampolines are great for those looking to stay close to shore, but thrill seekers should turn to tubing for some seriously fast times. Tubes come in several different styles,  including single and multi-rider accommodation, and are designed for sitting in or on top of. Sit-in styles are perfect for young kids who need to stay put, while sit-on models add excitement — riders have to hold on tight! Traditional round shaped tubes are best suited for casual floating, whereas aerodynamic styles are better for speed rides. The Comfort Top Boogie by Body Glove is one such tube, featuring winged sides that allow the device to rock and move with motion of the waves. “It has less drag on the water, so you can go a bit faster,” says Bryce Parten of Nash Sports.

Wake Up

A hybrid of water skiing and snowboarding, wakeboarding is another exciting sport. Since there’s only one board to control and it features a large surface area (like wide skis) to stand on, it’s easier for riders to maintain balance and stay afloat when boarding. “It’s better when there are less parts to deal with,” says Parten. The Backdraft wakeboard by Hydroslide features easy on-off bindings for stable mounting in the water.

All Aboard

A simpler, but equally fun, activity is kneeboarding. An excellent tool for water sports newbies, the kneeboard is easy for many to ride and learn how to maneuver. After just a few short turns on the water, even beginning kneeboarders may soon find themselves crossing wakes and experimenting with tricks in no time!

Sports Safety

Like all games, water sports are the most fun when played safely. One of the most important components of safety is having a responsible driver steering the boat. In addition to a trusty driver, there should be another occupant, called a spotter, observing the actions and instructions from the person being towed behind the boat. It’s not only for safety’s sake, “It’s the law!” reminds Gerry Gilinksy of Body Glove PFDs.

Wearing a correctly fitted life vest is also essential to keep everyone safe, whether they are in or near the water. A properly sized life vest should fit snug to the body because it will likely expand when it gets wet. If it’s too big, it can slide up over the wearer’s head and render it ineffective. Gilinsky recommends vests made from neoprene for a more precise fit. “Neoprene vests fit tighter and are truer to size,” he says. “It’s also a thicker material [and] good for the cold.”

Bring on the Fun

With the wide variety of products now available, water enthusiasts of all ages can enjoy the excitement and thrills of water sports. There may not be a better way to enjoy the warm weather this summer than riding the waves, getting wet and cooling off with family and friends. Make it a summer to remember.

-Water baby

*To receive Dunham’s coupons and information on new products, events and sales, sign up for Dunham’s Rewards.

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It Must Be The Shoes

BY: mpotter - 04/26/2012 | 12:53 PM

Beginning baseball player or all-star, without the traction advantage of cleats, it’s no go. 

The runner on first base steps toward second, then stops and studies the pitcher, looking for a clue that might reveal whether his next move will be a throw to first or a pitch to the plate. The pitcher goes into his stretch, looks over his shoulder and returns the stare, gauging the base runner’s lead and calculating whether he’s likely to break for second on the pitch. The runner takes one step back toward first. Confident that he has the runner leaning toward first, the pitcher delivers to the plate. But by the time he releases the ball, the runner has shifted his weight, and he digs in with his cleat, pushing off toward second with all the power his leg can generate.

Without baseball cleats, that runner would be spinning his wheels, slipping and sliding in the dirt, but the grip of the shoe allows him to apply as much force as he can muster. While cleats are essential equipment for the base runner, they’re also necessary for defensive players, who must react quickly to a batted ball and move into position. Similarly, that pitcher has to have firm footing on the pitching rubber and mound in order to deliver the ball with maximum velocity and accuracy.

 A Historical Footnote

Baseball cleats are an important part of a player’s equipment, and they have been since a ballplayer named Paul Butler first attached spikes to his leather shoes more than 150 years ago. Today, players can choose from a wide range of baseball cleats, including types designed for different conditions and playing surfaces. And while cleats may resemble street shoes, there’s a lot of science involved in their construction. Wedges are frequently used within the shoe to provide cushioning in some areas without adding excessive weight. The wedges can also serve to keep the front of the foot low to the ground, an advantage when running. Soft pads are located within the shoe to minimize pressure, and cushioning is used in midsole areas to reduce the discomfort that results from hours of standing and running. Tongue flaps keep the tongue in place while keeping dirt out, and zippered shrouds lock laces in place.

The cleats on the underside of the shoe are usually made of metal, solid rubber or molded thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). Metal cleats are durable and can dig into hard dirt. Non-metal cleats reduce the risk of injury to opposing players and can make for a more comfortable shoe. But since rubber and TPU cleats don’t provide as much grip, more metal cleats are used. Maximum height for all types is ½-inch. Generally, players who have reached high-school level or above use metal cleats when conditions warrant, while more junior ballplayers use a non-metal type. Some shoes are made with removable cleats, so both metal and non-metal cleats can be used interchangeably and worn cleats can be replaced.

The position of  the cleats can affect the way the shoes — and the athlete — perform. Nike, for example, has moved the toe cleat under the big toe to improve traction, while the secondary cleats in the forefoot area are engineered to improve lateral movement.

 Sizing Up the Shoe

It’s not all about traction and cleat design, the support the shoe provides and its durability are also important. Baseball cleats are available in both low-top and ¾-height shoe configurations. The low-tops offers great flexibility and are favored by speedy baserunners, while the ¾-height shoes provide more ankle support and are less likely to fall off. In terms of materials, synthetic outers can reduce weight, while leather is tough and durable. Many shoes are made from a combination of materials. Under Armour, a major supplier of baseball cleats, uses a combination of leather and a synthetic material called nubuck in many of their shoes. Nike baseball cleats use a rubber compound called Diamond Guard in the toe area to enhance durability.

 Special Applications

Most manufacturers offer shoes designed specifically for softball and for children. Because softball involves motions that differ from those of baseball, particularly for pitchers, shoes are engineered specifically for that game. Kids, on the other hand, grow fast, and some baseball cleats are designed to accommodate growth with removable spacers in the heel area.

Dunham’s carries a wide range of baseball cleats for boys, girls and adults. Among the most popular are the Nike Keystone and Under Armour’s Leadoff IV. A Dunham’s sales consultant can help you choose the cleats that are best for you or your aspiring athlete.

-Home Run Hitter

*To receive Dunham’s coupons and information on new products, events and sales, sign up for Dunham’s Rewards.

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Airsoft Adventure Never Stops!

BY: SportsFan - 04/18/2012 | 03:45 PM

Plenty of Action and Adventure for Backyard Target Shooters, On-line Mercenaries and Outdoor Weekend Warriors

     You are crouched behind a pile of rubble, cradling a replica Kalashnikov AK-47 in your arms. Your heart beats a little faster as you wait for a band of enemy insurgents to attack. It all seems so real, but are you:

A. In a simulated battle at your favorite game park?

B. In a virtual on-line war zone, engaged in a multi-player mission?

C. In your own backyard? 

If you are among the growing ranks of Airsoft enthusiasts, it could be any of the above. As a sport, airsoft is exploding in popularity because in backyards, on-line battle zones and game parks everywhere, the action is always on.

According to Justin Sigler of Soft Air USA, the leading manufacturer of airsoft guns, targets and accessories, “Airsoft allows boys and girls to be Wild Bill Hickok or Annie Oakley while shooting at targets in their own backyard, and adventure-addicted teens or adults to play out their wildest Ethan Hunt or Lara Croft fantasies.”

Generally considered far less dangerous than air-powered BB guns and far less expensive than paintball guns, orange-tipped airsoft guns are spring-powered replicas of real weapons used by players to shoot plastic BBs at targets or in mission-based scenarios with other players in open fields or paintball parks.

“Super-soft” airsoft pistols for beginners propel high-visibility pink 0.12-gram plastic BBs at 120 – 140 feet-per-second (fps) versus 1,000 fps from conventional BB guns. Soft Air USA is the exclusive licensee of a wide range of authentic, incredibly durable replica pistols, machine guns and shot guns, as well as tactical assault and sniper rifles, including full-metal auto-electric guns (AEGs) capable of firing 0.25-gram plastic BBs, specially powder-coated for game play, at speeds up to 500 fps. Each Soft Air gun is packaged with a rubberized sticky target and with the fps power rating clearly marked.

The popular DPMS M4 On Duty Ops Kit available at Dunham’s includes a Soft Air Colt 1911 target model spring powered pistol capable of firing up to 210 fps, along with a Soft Air spring powered DPMS Panther Arms A11 semi/full automatic assault rifle capable of firing up to 300 fps. Like the military issue, it features a high capacity magazine, plus an adjustable stock and grip.

Once you discover your ideal weapon, visit Dunham’s and choose one of the authentic spring-powered replicas from Soft Air. Dunham’s offers a wide selection of weapons, kits, targets, scopes, laser sights and accessories.

Then use the strategies and tactics you developed during on-line play to dominate the field at your local game park. Many paintball parks are quickly converting to airsoft play. In addition to open spaces with bunkers and trenches, some include bombed out cities, jungle fields or western towns. Some host airsoft competitions during which participants enter a specially constructed maze and shoot at targets along the way. Best times determine winners in different age categories. Protective eyewear is always recommended for target shooting and game play. Traditional prescription glasses, sunglasses, or goggles not designed specifically for airsoft or paintball play may break or shatter in game play and cause possible eye damage.

“No other sport,” says Sigler, “offers so much action and adventure on so many different levels. Whether you are a backyard target shooter, an on-line mercenary or an outdoor weekend warrior, airsoft is the sport for you.”

So, what are you waiting for? Dunham’s has everything you need to ensure you go into every airsoft battle armed with the best. 

JOIN THE ACTION ONLINE…

If you are unsure which airsoft gun is right for you, simply log on to http://www.thewarinc.com/   and try one on-line!

War Inc. Battle Zone allows you to experience hard hitting combat as a third person shooter in free-to-play multiplayer sessions. Create your own character. Select from over 130 available weapons, with more being added each month. Compete with friends and other players in real time team versus team combat. Fight your way through a desert village, in urban chaos or night warfare, or in close-quarter battles. Enjoy cutting-edge next-generation graphics and plenty of action while you test different hand guns, machine guns, shot guns, or assault, sniper and tactical weapons.

-Paintball Warrior

*To receive Dunham’s coupons and information on new products, events and sales, sign up for Dunham’s Rewards.

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From the Lab to The Links

BY: SportsFan - 04/11/2012 | 12:47 PM

The Seasons New Golf Gear is Engineered for Distance and Accuracy

  All winter long you’ve been itching to get back on the golf course. Well, all winter long equipment manufacturers have been re-programming their computers and adjusting their algorithms to help you hit the ball just a little bit longer and a little bit straighter.

 Farther Down the Fairway

Drivers are usually the focus of attention because everybody wants to be longer off the tee. But TaylorMade is emphasizing the next club in your bag — the fairway wood. It’s called the RocketBallz™ or “RBZ,” and yes it is a club. The unusual name came when testing engineers who first used it said the ball “rocketed” off the club.

There are two keys to RocketBallz technology. First, the center of gravity has been moved forward to provide a higher launch angle and less spin. Second is a cavity (Speed Pocket) carved into the sole. Positioned just behind the face, it’s designed to increase flexibility of both the face and the sole. Both developments increase ball speed, and more ball speed means more distance.

Here’s the geeky engineering explanation, all centered around the Coefficient of Restitution (COR). In English, that means how well object A (the golf club) transfers energy to object B (the golf ball). Traditional fairway woods have had a COR of about .777, while the RocketBallz jumps to .815.

So what does all this engineering talk mean to you? More distance. TaylorMade is advertising that the RocketBallz fairway wood will add 17 yards of distance for a typical golfer. And if the lawyers let them say that, who can argue? (Not that any lawyer actually swung the club). What it all comes down to is hitting the ball farther, says TaylorMade’s Rob Backus. “It’s all about speed and how the ball trampolines off the face of the club.”

Nike has its own technology to increase distance off the tee. Its VR_S driver has what it calls NexCOR (notice how it got “COR” into the name of the product?). This concentrates on the face of the club. A multi-thickness design makes the face of the club ultrathin at the sweet spot, which — ta-da — increases ball speed off the tee.

“The VR_S is hot,” says Nike’s Chris Coffman. “It feels fast — I don’t know how else to describe it.” 

Speaking of Ball Speed

You spend a lot more money on a new club than on a golf ball, but it’s the ball that actually determines your score. Not to fear, the golf scientists have been spending plenty of time on the little white sphere.

Titleist has long dominated the ball market and they are introducing four new products. Most significant is a new version of the NXT Tour, the highly popular, non-urethane cover ball first introduced a decade ago. The new ball has a slightly smaller soft center and higher volume outer core layer engineered to increase power and (of course) distance. A soft, thin Fusablend cover features a new spherically tiled octahedral design with four axis of symmetry and 302 dimples in five sizes.

All the laboratory work and science is important, but it’s what happens on the golf course that determines whether a product succeeds and the Titleist development process is heavy on real world application. “Our ball development process always starts with golfer testing where we identify improvement that will help golfers score better,” says Bill Morgan, Senior Vice-President, Golf Ball Research and Development.

Nike is introducing what it calls a radical new core technology for its 20XI ball. The core is lighter with a low density that distributes weight to the perimeter, thus increasing ball moment of inertia (MOI). That higher ball MOI maintains spin after the apex of the shot, adding yards and minimizing travel off line.

There are also cosmetic changes to balls. Titleist is beginning to use double digit markings on its balls. Not a revolutionary change, but it’s different and something to make your ball stand out. And the new NXT Tour S is being offered in white and yellow.  Colored balls were all the rage in the 1980s, and when Jerry Pate won the TPC at Sawgrass in ’82 with an orange ball, there was some thought golf might join tennis and leave the white ball behind. That never happened and the color craze faded.  Now colored balls are making a comeback.

“There’s definitely been a resurgence in color,” says Gary Humenny of Bridgestone, which has long offered many colored variations. “They are easier to see, they are distinctive and they’ve always been popular with women.”

 Belly Up to the Putter

One of the hottest products in golf is the belly putter and it has very little to do with technology. The excitement stems from a day last August when Keegan Bradley won the PGA with a belly putter. Nothing sparks interest in a new club like winning a major.  “Our sales have exploded,” says Powerbilt’s Dennis Wente. “We re-introduced belly putters in October and through February we’ve sold close to 15,000.”

You can’t just convert a 35-inch putter to a belly putter, because the putter will be too light. That’s why 50-60 grams of weight have been added to the belly versions.

Belly putters have tended to be popular with older golfers and have been a staple of the Senior Tour. As people age their hands become less steady and, because the longer putters require less wrist action, in theory that means fewer putting ‘yips.’  But now that younger players are winning tournaments with belly putters, the belly putter is being validated for all golfers.

The grip, stance and putter itself are quite different, and Wente says not to expect overnight success and to plan on working out the kinks on the practice green. “First, get the right length and lie. And give the putter some time before you take it to the course, because it will take some time getting used to.”

But then, success in golf requires plenty of practice in all phases of your game, right?

 Belly Putter Fitting

Determine Length

A belly putter of the correct length will allow the sole of the putter to rest flat on the ground, and will position your eyes directly over the ball.

STEP 1: Position the butt-end 2-3 inches above your belt buckle in the center of your belly.

Another technique is moving the butt-end 2-3 inches left of center if you’re a right-handed putter, or 2-3 inches right of center if you’re a left-handed putter, to find which position feels best.

STEP 2: Hold the putter just firmly enough against your belly to keep the butt-end anchored.

STEP 3: Check to see if putter head is flat on the ground, and your eyes are positioned just inside the ball.

STEP 4: Check posture — you’ll want to assume comfortable position that allows your arms to hang freely and your shoulders and body to rotate to make a pendulum-like swing.

TOO LONG: You’ll know the putter is too long for you if:

• The toe of the putter head is raised in the air.

• Your arms and hand are extended and not hanging freely.

• Your stroke starts sharply inside and finishes sharply inside.

TOO SHORT: You’ll know the putter is too short for you if:

• Feel hunched over in an uncomfortable position.

• Your weight is constantly falling towards your toes.

• Your stroke starts outside and swings inside.

-Par Shooter

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DRIVE FOR SHOW … PUTT FOR DOUGH

BY: SportsFan - 04/03/2012 | 03:50 PM

The last time you went golf shopping, how much time did you spend researching drivers? Probably a lot more time than when you got your putter, right? True, drivers are a lot more complicated (and expensive) than putters. And while drivers have a huge impact on our golf egos (we all want to be longest off the tee), it is our putter that will have a much bigger impact on our scores.

For a scratch golfer, about half of his or her strokes are on the green. And while the ratio may be lower for high handicappers, the importance of putting can’t be overstated. You can recover from a bad drive—not so for a missed putt.

Putting technology has changed dramatically since the days of Bobby Jones’ famous wood-shafted “Calamity Jane” (still a very good putter, by the way). The advancements have all sought to improve that ephemeral “feel” that all golfers need on the green. Regardless of the head design—blade, peripheral-weighted or mallet, you can take advantage of high tech enhancements.

Metal Inserts

Inserts are added to the face of a putter. Technically, they increase the “Moment of Inertia” (MOI). Non-technically, that means there’s less chance the head of the putter will twist, causing the ball to go places you don’t want it—say, anywhere besides the hole. Steel is the traditional insert and it usually gives soft and responsive feedback for a solid, controlled feel. Various other metals are also available—bronze, aluminum, brass, copper, zinc, titanium—all with their own distinctive “feel.”

Non-Metal Inserts

Lightweight non-metal inserts allow the weight of the putter to be redistributed elsewhere on the putter face. The MOI increases, as does the “forgiveness” (at least in theory). The downside of non-metal inserts is they produce less sound than metal, reducing the feedback, which for some golfers means less “feel”.

Groovy Putters

The key to accurate putting is to achieve forward rolling motion immediately upon striking the ball. Grooves on a putter can help achieve this motion and keep the ball on line. At impact, the grooves grip the surface of the ball and simultaneously lift the ball out of its resting position and give an over-the-top rolling action.

Putting Is Personal

Finding the right putter is definitely a trial-and-error process. When your putter is working well, you are on top of your game. When it’s not, well—time to go shopping again.

-Par Shooter

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Making The Sale

BY: SportsFan - 03/28/2012 | 07:47 PM

Combine Tactics To Bring Whitetails Close 

By Todd Amenrud

(reprinted from NBS Outdoor)

 The big Minnesota buck stood at the edge of a picked corn field about 250 yards away, and even from that distance I could see he was a definite shooter.

Rather than skirting the field and coming by my stand just off of the corner, he cut straight across the middle. What to do? I picked up my rattle-bag and cracked it as hard as I could. He stopped and turned his head toward me. I hit the rattle bag a second time and he came on a steady trot in my direction. Once he reached 100 yards he slowed to a fast walk and started to swing downwind.

Long story short … he stood 80 yards downwind of me hardly moving a muscle for almost 5 minutes. The only movements were his ears searching for the two bucks he had just heard and his nose waving in the breeze scanning for other supporting evidence. He turned and disappeared slowly over the ridge.

What makes a situation seem real to you?

Sight, sound, scent, feel — the more senses we appease the more realistic a scenario seems to us. And that’s also true for whitetails. A hunter can use a combination of techniques to appeal to multiple whitetail senses at once. On that day, I sure wish I would have set up some scent or placed a decoy to draw his attention and coax him in the final 80 yards.

Does, fawns, and young bucks often will ramble straight into a well-placed decoy, a scent that’s been placed out properly, or a vocalization that sounds authentic. Mature bucks, though, almost always needs confirmation from more than one source before they plow forth into the unknown.

The nose knows.

If you can fool a whitetail’s sense of smell, you’ve almost got it made. Just like sight is our most believable sense, (“seeing is believing”) a whitetail’s most trusted guide is his nose. That doesn’t only mean that hunters must use scent to draw them in, it also means that hunters must practice a strict scent-elimination regimen. Actually, when it comes to fooling the whitetail nose, the most important step is probably to keep foreign smells completely out of the picture — by using Scent Killer, for example. If a mature buck smells the sweet smell of estrus, intermingled with an unfamiliar “danger” smell, his instinct for survival will win out and your work will go for naught.

The eyes have it.

Scent (or thereof) can con a whitetail’s sense of smell. But you can help seal the deal by addressing more than one of their senses at a time. Lately, I’ve been experimenting with the art of using decoys to fool the whitetail’s sense of sight.

The first step is to start with the correct decoy. Pay special attention to the decoys’ posture and movement. Decoys that are in an alert posture typically will bring in deer in an alert, edgy temperament. They may come to within 40 to 60 yards, snorting and stomping the ground at your decoy, or at whatever has caused your decoy to be so alert. A decoy with an alert, intimidating posture is useful at times, but for most deer throughout most of the season you’ll be better off with a decoy displaying a more serene pose.

Movement is important too. When is it natural for a standing deer to be totally motionless? The answer is, when it’s alert, when something is wrong or out of place, or just before it’s about to bolt. None of those scenarios evoke the emotions you want your whitetails to feel.

There are all kinds of ways to add motion to decoys — from tying a string to a chicken feather or white hanky, taping the string to the hind end or ear of the decoy and letting the wind move it; to tacking a real whitetail-tail to the hind end of the decoy and operating it with monofilament line. Granted, in a 15-mph wind, the chicken feather flutters so fast it looks like the decoy is about to take flight. But I believe extreme motion is better than no motion at all. You can also purchase a decoy kit that’s designed to convert standard decoys into motion decoys, or purchase a decoy that has moving parts.

One of the three biggest whitetails I’ve ever seen in my life showed up to a small central Iowa alfalfa field one December day. I had a doe decoy in front of my ground blind about 30 yards and I had just rattled, imitating my best “two bucks fighting over a hot doe” possible. When this guy made the scene, I rubbed my eyes in disbelief. He was a perfect 6×6 with 14-inch tines, mass throughout, and an inside spread exceeding 20 inches. This buck easily would have scored over 200 inches. He was a sight to see, even though I didn’t get a shot.

He hopped the fence in a shelterbelt about 120 yards away, and once he reached the alfalfa he stood staring at my motionless decoy. Although he stood in one spot, his ears were scanning and his tail swung occasionally — motion that my decoy lacked. The big guy suspected something and wouldn’t come any closer. Another 135-inch 5×5 showed up in the opposite corner of the small 20-acre field. He wouldn’t come closer either, because he knew where he ranked in this social standoff. In the span of about an hour, I brought the mammoth buck as close as 60 yards three different times by rattling and smacking the antlers on the ground as hard as I could. But, each time he stopped short to stare at my motionless decoy. In this case, multiple stimuli worked great to bring the animals in, but the lack of movement on my decoy prevented me from closing the deal. (I did manage to kill the smaller 5×5 the next morning at a mock scrape set-up.)

Sometimes an alert posture will work. Sometimes I prefer an alert, aggressive posture. If I’m after a mature buck, playing the “competition card” by using aggressive tactics has worked great for me. I wish I would have had that scenario ready to go for that Iowa buck! When you’re targeting any deer, the most important detail is to give that particular deer a reason to interact with your set-up.

What time of year is it? Are you after a specific buck or doe, or will any deer do? What age-class buck are you after? Think about what that deer would want at that time of year, and give it a reason to close the distance. For any deer, any time of year, a decoy in a feeding, greeting, or bedded posture works best.

 To combine scent and decoying, first you must eliminate foreign odors. First clean your decoy with Scent Killer soap, then touch it only while wearing gloves, and always store it someplace where foreign odors will not transfer onto it. If you need to transport your decoy, first place it in a garbage bag or something that will seal out odors.

When choosing lures and scents, again, think about what the deer you’re after wants at that specific time of the season. Early season, you might use plain buck or doe urine … just something to add realism to the scenario. Closer to the rut, you might scent your buck decoy with a combination of Active Scrape and Mega Tarsal Plus: the first provides a full-spectrum scrape aroma and the other is a territorial-intrusion scent. This helps create the illusion that your fake buck is moving into his breeding territory. Consider how and why a buck might interact with your set-up, and give them a reason to close the distance.

When dispersing scent, I prefer to place it on a Pro-Wick or a Key-Wick near the decoy rather than applying it directly to the decoy. The simple reason is that a week later, your decoy won’t smell like last week’s pee and you won’t have to constantly scrub it down.

Calling all bucks.

Calling can be a lethal weapon in your arsenal. What works will vary depending on the situation: add soft, social grunts during early season while using a buck decoy; add an estrus bleat combined estrus lure during the rut … it all depends. One of my favorite tactics just before and after the peak of the rut is to place a small buck decoy over a bedded doe decoy, then try to create the illusion that two bucks are fighting over the fake doe in estrus. Between rattling sequences, I might imitate an estrus bleat. Special Golden Estrus helps pull off the ruse.

Taking the decoy out of the picture and using scent and calling/rattling together happens much more often than adding a decoy to the list of tools. But even minus the decoy, the combination of calling or rattling and scent works great. They hear “deer sounds,” then circle downwind and smell “deer smells,” which gives them the confidence to close the distance. Where a decoy requires some forethought, calling and scent, whose tools are easily carried in your pack, can be spontaneous.

When I specifically venture forth in an attempt to rattle in a buck, I almost always use real antlers. Their true-to-life resonance and the extra subtle sounds you can create with them, like scraping a tree or smacking the ground, can’t be achieved with a rattle-bag or plastic gadget. Still, I’ve called in the most bucks with my rattle-bag simply because it’s with me all the time.

Decoys are fun to use, but it’s really that “one-two punch” of calls and scent that produce the most consistent results. Last season, calls and scent helped me harvest a wide 4×4. It was November 7, the first day of a hunt on my Ontario property and I had just laid a scent trail of Special Golden Estrus right down the logging road that leads past one of my blinds. After parking the ATV downwind I got into the blind, looked over my shoulder, and saw a doe rounding the corner on the logging road. There was no chance to ready my equipment because there was more movement on the other side. When I looked back, a buck we had named Patches (because of the white piebald spots on his shoulder) was already 60 yards away coming down the trail with his nose to the ground following the scent. He caught me getting my equipment ready and we did the “Mexican standoff.” I lost. He turned around and bounded out of view. I grabbed my rattle bag and popped it, gave a loud vocalization with my voice, but I figured I had just goofed that one.

Thirty seconds later a doe and a fawn rounded the corner and 5 seconds later another doe was being pushed around the corner. I realized Patches was doing the pushing, and I was thankful for the second chance. The buck must have thought one of those does was the source of the enticing Special Golden Estrus; he wasn’t going to leave even though he had just seen me moments before. Because I’m always very careful about scent elimination and scent transfer, he never cold confirm that I was dangerous. Special Golden Estrus plus the great timing of a couple of does saved me on this hunt.

Some hunters think that trying to appeal to more senses leaves you prone to making more mistakes. Details are important whenever you hunt whitetails, but if you use common sense, keep human scent out of the picture, and present the most natural set-up possible, results will follow.

Remember: Why would a specific deer want to interact with your set-up? How he might interact with the scenario you’ve presented — to socialize or to compete? The more realistic you can make it seem, the better your results will be.

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Hook, Line, and Simple

BY: mpotter - 03/27/2012 | 07:38 PM

Finding the right fishing gear has never been easier

 

by Tony Wilson

 

When the ice melts and the leaves return to the trees, it’s time to get back out on the lake and land that trophy lunker. For beginning anglers and veterans alike, though, it takes a combination of having the right equipment and knowing the lake and its inhabitants to be successful.

 

Should you fall in the beginner category, have no fear. There is plenty of gear at Dunham’s Sports to get even the most inexperienced fi sherman the tools needed for fi shing season. Companies like Rapala, Shakespeare, Abu Garcia, and Eagle Claw ensure that all fi shermen are geared up from the season’s start to its finish.

 

“The Rapala brand is a great way to start,” said Matt Jensen of Rapala. “Rapala has all the essential lures, tools, and knives to help new anglers gear up for the season. For an angler who is new to fishing, the best thing they can do is to work with a sporting goods manager to ensure that they start out purchasing products that are simple and easy to use.”

 

John Vander Sloot of Eagle Claw, echoes similar advice, though he advises beginners to start small. There’s no need to get the top-of-the-line gear unless you have top-of-the-line experience.

 

“My best advice for someone who is going to purchase gear for the first time is to start on the low end of the pricing scale,” Vander Sloot explained. “Dunham’s does a great job of carrying entry level combos (rod and reel purchased together) that can get a person into the sport at a reasonable cost.”

 

Scott Ingram of Pradco, which produces products like Yum soft baits and hard lures like Hula Poppers, Jitterbugs, and Pop R’s, advises shoppers not to be intimidated by a large selection, similar to one you’d find at a Dunham’s.

 

“When you walk into a Sporting Goods store, such as a Dunham’s, the fishing department can be overwhelming,” Ingram explains. “This is a great place to start the learning experience. Never be afraid to ask questions. You will be rewarded when you hit the water.”

 

When selecting fishing equipment, the options may seem overwhelming. There is a variety of different types of rods, reels, lines, lures, and tackle boxes, and each is meant for varying levels of fishing experience.

 

“In today’s environment, selecting the proper equipment to start fishing has never been easier,” said Jim Burrows of Pure Fishing. “Dunham’s Sports carries a large selection of combos, covering every need from Ultralite combos for pan fishing to 6’ or 6 1/2’ light, medium, or mediumheavy combos for walleye, bass, and northern fishing.”

 

When selecting a rod, anglers will see that some are plastic, some are graphite, and some are fiberglass. But what’s the difference, and what makes one
better than the other? According to Vander Sloot, the differences in material will increase with the price of the rod.

 

“When an angler steps up in cost they will start seeing rods made out of graphite,” Vander Sloot explains. “While fiberglass is tougher and more durable, graphite is lighter and more sensitive to the action that is going on with the line.”

 

As far as how to select a quality line, there are a few different choices. According to Jim Burrows, a monofilament line is the most popular. Monofilament lines, like Berkeley’s Trilene XL, is a solid choice for open water and Berkley’s Trilene XT for dirty water with obstructions like dock poles, weeds, large rocks, and the like. A fluorocarbon line is better for clearer water. It reacts with light, making it virtually invisible to fish.

 

Finally, braided lines, like Spider Wire, are known for their nearindestructibility. So you have the rod, reel, and tackle — but how exactly do you catch fish? There are plenty of different techniques, all reliant on water depth, outside temperature, and weather, to name a few. But one key, according to Burrows, is to just tag along with someone who has that experience.

 

“For a person who has never fished or may not have fi shed since a child but would like to, there are several ways to approach it,” said Burrows. “First I would recommend trying to find a friend or family member who fishes and ask to go with them. This approach will allow you to talk with them and to use their knowledge to assist you in picking out the proper equipment to meet your needs.”

 

“My best advice is to simply be on the water,” Jensen added. “An angler cannot catch a fish from the cabin, but time on the water will help anglers learn more about where they are fishing.”

 

It doesn’t just take the best rod and reel — it takes the most patience, experience, and ability to learn about the sport. But by asking questions with the insightful staff at your local Dunham’s, you’ll need to make room on your mantle.

 

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Trolling for Trout

BY: SportsFan - 03/20/2012 | 08:19 PM

Here’s How To Catch Trout In Open Water During The Late Season

By Al Raychard

(reprinted from NBS Outdoor)

 

Okay, here’s a question for you. True or false, trolling lakes and ponds for trout is strictly a springtime tactic? True, you say? Well you’re wrong. Just like I was until I learned otherwise about 10 years ago.

 

A decade or so ago, I got a phone call from a charter boat captain and friend of mine who operates on trout- and salmon-rich Lake Ontario in upstate New York, a few hours drive from my home. “Are you free a couple days this week?” he asked.

 

“I can be,” I answered, “but what for? It’s deer season. I thought you’d be out chasing whitetails.”

 

The captain told he normally would be, but he tagged out during archery season. Although his chartering duties were officially over until spring, late season was his personal favorite time to troll for trout.

 

I accepted his fishing invitation. When I arrived boat-side a couple of days later, the morning sky was overcast and the temperatures had yet to push the mercury above the 40-degree mark. A steady breeze wind was blowing creating a chop on the lake outside the bay that made it feel even colder. It looked like it could snow at any minute. It was my first time trolling for trout this late in the year, and as I stepped aboard I asked, “Are you sure about this?”

 

“Of course I’m sure. It’s a perfect day. Simply a perfect day.”

 

By the time we arrived back at the dock later that morning, I was a convert. The captain knew what he was taking about —the oft-overlooked late season is a prime time to troll for trout. During our excursion we boated several lake trout measured in pounds rather than inches and several football-shaped brown trout. We repeated the success the next day as well. Since that trip I’ve been a diehard fall trout fisherman, giving up several days of my beloved deer hunting each year to get on the water and troll a line or two. I’ve used trolling tactics to catch not only late-season lake and brown trout, but rainbows, brook trout, and various hybrids as well.

 

Looking back now, I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised. Fishing for trout by various means, including trolling big lakes, ponds, and reservoirs has been a passion most of my life and I like to think I know as much about the various species and how to get them on the line as the next guy. Perhaps I didn’t. Perhaps I just didn’t take time to think about it, but whatever the case, trolling for trout during the late season makes perfect sense.

And why not?

Late-season fishing conditions in many ways are the same as early spring fishing conditions, the period when trolling tactics are most popular and productive. As they do in the spring, most lakes and many large ponds containing trout populations stratify in late fall. Fishermen refer to this as “fall turnover.” Without getting into the technical jargon, this basically means that water temperatures and oxygen levels are pretty much the same throughout the lake until the surface freezes for the winter, and trout are free to go just about anywhere they want to find food. Very often this often means close to shore and in places they might not be available at other times of year.

 

The important thing to remember is that the turnover has a major effect on a given body of water, stirring up sediment on the bottom often giving the water a dirty or off-color look and increases turbidity. As a result oxygen levels actually decrease during the process and fish turn off from feeding. This period of poor fishing conditions, when the turnover is taking place, lasts from 1 to 2 weeks, depending upon such factors as wind and air temperature. Once the fall turnover is complete, though, water clarity improves and oxygen levels rise quickly; fish go on a late-season feeding frenzy in preparation for winter.

 

Clearly, timing is critical when fishing the late season. Trolling generally is a waste of time during the actual turnover period because fish are not aggressively feeding due to poor water conditions. Once the turnover is complete, however, up until the first freeze — that’s when you want to be out there wetting a line. That’s when the trout aggressively are back on the feedbag. Because the turnover occurs in different geographic regions at different times, unless a fisherman knows a particular lake extremely well, keeping in touch with local fishery biologists, bait and tackle shops, lodge owners, and fishing guides is the best way to learn when the turnover is expected to begin, is underway, or is complete.

 

The fall turnover isn’t the only reason why late season can be such a productive time to get out there and troll a line or two. Several trout species, including brook, brown, and lake trout spawn in the late fall and early winter. This means they’ll be found in relatively shallow water, from just below the surface down to 20 to 30 feet or so, in areas where they are not normally found during the summer.

 

Another reason is food. At the same time that the fall turnover is ending, and trout’s instinct and urge to feed is increasing, dramatically, baitfish including smelt, dace, and various shiners and other minnows have moved from deep water to feed on plankton, zooplankton, and small aquatic invertebrates found closer to shore or the surface. Most also travel or congregate in large schools for protection, all of which make them more readily available to hungry trout.

 

Where to find the late-season action.

Despite conditions that allow trout to go practically anywhere within a given body of water, certain areas offer the best opportunities for success during the late season. The mouth of tributary rivers, streams, and creeks are good bets. These runs not only draw trout species that spawn in the fall or early winter, but the consistent flushing of nutrients into the lake in these areas attract and hold schools of baitfish and provide a safe haven at the same time. Edges where fast currents meet the lake, foam lines, edges of sand or gravel bars, and drop-offs where the shallow tributary drops into the lake can be especially productive.

 

Some lakes, ponds, and reservoirs lack tributaries that are large or deep enough to serve as spawning areas for trout. In these cases, trout will use gravelly shorelines, even sandy beaches to complete their spawning ritual. A fly, lure, or bait trolled through these areas can be extremely productive.

 

All fish relate to structure. Boulder-strewn shorelines, rocky points, underwater ledges, ledges that drop into the water, drop-offs along the shoreline, submerged river or creek beds, the areas and channels between islands, even the edge of mid-lake shoals and sandbars all are potential hotspots for late-season trout action. This is especially true along windward shores and areas where wind is breaking the surface. Wind action not only forces baitfish and feed to these locations, but the rippled surface provides additional cover and a sense of protection to schools of baitfish and trout alike.

 

Especially if you’re unfamiliar with a particular body of water, consulting lake-contour and -depth maps can make or break your outing. Besides illustrating the lake’s general shape, including points, coves, and public boat launches, these maps also show tributary inlets, islands, shoals, and depth contours. Lake maps are available for download from most fish and wildlife department websites. They’re also available at local tackle shops. (Note: not all of these maps are intended for navigational purposes.)

 

Trolling tactics.

One advantage of trolling is that it allows fishermen to cover a large area without wasting time fishing empty or unproductive water. Unless you’re catching fish or getting a lot of strikes, it makes little sense to spend much time in one area. In most cases during the late season, trolling off a particular river or creek mouth or along a rocky shoreline once or twice should produce some action if fish are present. If nothing happens, move on.

 

To increase your odds of success, troll when the conditions are ideal. Because trout stay relatively shallow this time of year, overcast days, moderately windswept days, and early and late in the day when the sun is at a low angle are the best times to be on the water. Action is still possible on clear days, when the surface is calm, and even when the sun is high, but you’ll probably want to troll deeper water in these conditions.

 

Trolling speed is another consideration. Water is much colder in the late season, in the 40s or just above freezing in many locations. Consequently, trout are more lethargic and less willing to chase food over long distances. “Slower” is the operative word. Without the benefit of a boat-mounted speed indicator or electronics that indicate how fast a boat is moving, judging trolling speed is tricky. Many trolling enthusiasts use rod-tip action as an indicator. Generally speaking, the faster the trolling speed, the faster the tip will vibrate, bounce, or “work” in a back and forth motion. Others watch the shoreline for clues about how fast they’re moving. As a rule of thumb, late-season trolling speed should be comparable to a brisk walk — just fast enough to move the offering through the water. When in doubt, select a speed that feels or looks right depending upon rod action or the shoreline, and maintain it. Most anglers tend to troll too fast. If no strikes occur, slow down a tad. Experiment until you get it right.

 

Also important to keep in mind is that baitfish typically stay close to shore, usually within 50 to 60 feet or so, often much closer. This is where you should troll, because this is where the trout will be. One of the largest brown trout I ever caught, a football-shaped beauty tipping the scales at more than 6 pounds, was taken so close to shore I could have tossed a stone into the trees, and my throwing arm has never been great. On another occasion, I trolled along ledges that dropped into a favorite lake and hooked several rainbow trout measuring in pounds rather than inches. I was using a 9-foot fly rod and trolling flies, but the main point is that we were so close my rod tip was just a few feet from the ledge. There are exceptions, but typically during this time of year, the closer to shore and structure you work a fly, lure, or bait the greater your chances of success.

 

Besides staying close to shore, baitfish seldom travel or school in deep water during the late season. Typically they school in less than 20 feet of water. Whenever possible, troll parallel to the shoreline and navigate around points, and into coves and other likely locations. Navigate in a slow “S” pattern to swing and vary the speed of the offering and give it a more lifelike action and appearance.

 

Unless planner boards are used, stagger your lines when trolling. In some jurisdictions, fishing with more than one line is illegal. If that’s the case in your location, troll directly off the stern with 30 to 40 feet of line. But if you are allowed to fish more than one line or when you’ve got several anglers trolling together, work one line on the shore side of the boat 50 feet back, a second line on the outside at 60 or 70 feet, and a third off the stern at 25 to 35 feet in the boat’s wake. This setup greatly reduces the chances of tangling, especially when navigating around points and in other tight situations. Staggering lines in this way also leaves plenty of room to play fish once they’re hooked.

 

Finally, unless you are a purist fishing strictly flies, lures, or bait, start the day off fishing different types of offerings at the same time — for example, try a fly on one line, a flashy wobbling spoon on another, and perhaps bait or a deep riding lure on a third. This will put offerings at different levels increasing your chances of locating fish and identifying the right level to troll. One type of offering may also produce more action than the others and clearly indicate which type you should use.

 

Gear.

One reason trolling is so enjoyable this time of year is that much of the action is close to the surface, or at least in relatively shallow water as compared to the summer and early-fall angling periods. This means downriggers, lead-core lines, and other gear used to get to deepwater bastions aren’t required to achieve late-season success.

 

For spinning equipment, any medium-action rod will do nicely when trolling lures or bait. Reels should be loaded with 6- to 10-pound test line with a snap swivel on the end to allow natural movement through the water. For trolling flies, fly rods from 8 1/2 to 9 feet designed for 6, 7, or 8-weight lines are good choices. Fly reels should be loaded with plenty of backing, with sink-tip or full-sinking lines and extra-long (20- to 25-feet) leaders made of 6- to 8-pound test monofilament. Leaders of this length provide a greater break between the fly line and fly and help the fly ride better through the water. In all cases, reels should have a smooth, reliable drag and set; they ensure that line won’t release when trolling, but are light enough to allow a fish to run during a strike.

 

For flies, any pattern that resembles the predominant baitfish in a given lake should produce action on late-season trout; if you’re not sure, check with local bait and tackle shops. Often, these establishments will have local patterns tied to specifically imitate local baitfish. If not, you can depend on the standards (such as the Grey Ghost, Black Ghost, Nine-Three, Supervisor and Mickey Finn) tied on extra-long hooks or in tandem to produce results.

 

The list of productive late-season trout lures is long, but perennial favorites include the Acme Flash King, Kastmaster, Phoebe and Little Cleo in 1/6- and ¼-ounce sizes; Williams and Mooselook Wobblers; the classic Vibrax and Pixee spoon from Blue Fox; any shallow-running offering from Rapala and Yo-Zuri; and spinners from Mepps and Panther Martin.

 

Much of the appeal of late-season trolling is the ability to experiment with different lures in multiple size and color combinations. Don’t hesitate to give your favorites a ride through the chilly water! Get out there and troll a line or two before winter finally takes hold and you lose that opportunity for awhile.

 

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